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preservatives. parabens vs ethanol
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drtodorov
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Joined: 10 Dec 2004
Posts: 3255

PostPosted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 8:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my experience, for most people it is an unnecessary effort and expense to DIY the base from individual inactive ingredients, since the main impact comes from active ingredients, not the vehicle. Occasionally, for people with unusal skin needs and sensitivities, a DIY base might make sense.
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melina
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 1:01 pm    Post subject: base cream Reply with quote

Dr Todorov can you give us a base cream preservative to use with the shea butter & jojoba oil ? tks
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guest
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 1:42 pm    Post subject: base cream Reply with quote

doesn' t all of the other chemicals & ingredients in a store-bought cream penetrate the skin also with the active ingredients ?
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drtodorov
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Joined: 10 Dec 2004
Posts: 3255

PostPosted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 12:25 am    Post subject: Re: base cream Reply with quote

melina wrote:
Dr Todorov can you give us a base cream preservative to use with the shea butter & jojoba oil ? tks


What Dia suggested is fine (Heliozimt K
INCI: 3,4-Methylendioxy-benzaldehyd, Phenylpropylalcohol )

Also, if you refrigerate it, and don't make more than a month worth at a time, you probably could do without a preservative.
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melanie
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 3:15 pm    Post subject: base cream Reply with quote

Dr Todorov I want to make the base cream : It says to
mix 20 gr shea butter
55ml jojoba oil
take 10 gr from the fat + 30 ml of boiled water . Heat to 70 C . can you write the US measure for about 1 month supply.

I do not want to use preservative so you said to keep in the refrigerator for 1 month .
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 24, 2005 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To calculate you need to know that:

1 ounce apprx. = 28 gr.
1 ml of water = 1g
1 ml of oil = 0.9 g



Or if you don't have scales:

1 teaspoon approx. = 5 gr.

20 gr approx. = 4 teaspoons

10 gr approx. = 2 teaspoons

55 ml approx = 2 fluid ounces
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melanie
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 2:29 pm    Post subject: base cream Reply with quote

thank you for the measurement. Is this base cream ok for all the DIY creams ?
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drtodorov
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Joined: 10 Dec 2004
Posts: 3255

PostPosted: Fri Feb 25, 2005 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a recipe for base cream posted by a user of this site. I have not tested it for DIY. It might work with some DIY ingredients, esp the fat soluble ones, but I can't tell you for sure.
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is one of my favorite topics as I was appalled to learn about methyl parabens and other "toxic" preservatives that I believe are not only unnecessary but have no business being on the skin. It's true that there must be a preservative as rancid products cause whole different types of problems...but there are food preservatives that are not as toxic and do a fine job in preventing rancidity.

For an example of another "preservative" used in skin care look to propylene glycol (hope I spelled it right) it's in MOST skin care products today, and yet it's chemical equalivent is ANTI FREEZE. One reason skin care companies use them is that they're CHEAP, much cheaper than their non-toxic and food grade counterparts.

I've had trouble finding even so called "natural" products without this one in it, even aveda has it...you might want to check out a staple of mine that has none of these types of ingredients and has helped my skin in a big way...at epidermx.com...there are others, you just have to really do your homework and read read read....

All the best,
Ashlie
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mkecpt



Joined: 23 Jul 2005
Posts: 11

PostPosted: Sat Jul 23, 2005 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it is noteworthy to mention that there are different grades to parabens and preservatives in general. The highest quality is a fodd-grade preservative, though most cosmetic skincare companies are using alesser quality industrial-grade preservative...these tend to have a lot of impurities. A food grade preservative is the highest quality and safe for consumption, and is what is used in food products. It is the only grade parabens I will put on my face!
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merton



Joined: 12 Mar 2006
Posts: 80

PostPosted: Tue Apr 25, 2006 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. Glyceryl monostearate is probably the same as the INCI name "glyceryl stearate" in the U.S.

2. Please note that dia is speaking only of the OIL PHASE COMPONENT of the mixture for storage. Preservatives are required for the water phase only because thats where the bacteria, fungi and yet to be discovered nasties grow. For the oil phase the concern is rancidity. (vitamin e works well)

3. Glyceryl stearate, as with most stearates used in cosmetics, is an Emulsifier. These are used so that oil and water can stay mixed in lotions. They act as a bridge between the two. They might have some minor presevative power but not much.

3. Parabens are probably the best preservative. They work best in combination with other parabens. They also release formaldehyde over time. The US therefore sets maximum concentrations for them usually 0.5% - 2%. Formaldehyde is a natural product of cell catabolism (breakdown). In large amounts its considered carcinogenic. Remember this is for the protection of the water phase.

4. The danger of the minute level of formaldehyde when using the FDA maximum for parabens is considerably outweighed by the danger of not using them in commercial products.

5. A good sourcebook for preservatives is "Presevatives for Cosmetics" by David C. Steinberg, 2nd ed. 2006. You can get it at lotioncrafter's site.

6. There's a very detailed set of home lotionmaking instructions at the snowdriftfarms site.

7. Finally the emulsifying product you reference is available here:

http://thepersonalformulator.com/wvss/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=115

Quoting from this link:

"INCI: Glyceryl Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate is an excellent emulsifier and emulsion stabilizer.
It has an HLB of 3.6. Good emollient, opacifier and viscosity builder in emulsions. Typically used with another high HLB emulsifier, such as Polysorbate 20 or Ceteareth 20. It is supplied in white flakes and is typical used at 1-3% in creams and lotions."

I realize this is an old thread. Hopefully someone finds it useful.

-merton
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