An alpha hydroxy acid derivative suitable for sensitive skin.

Author: Wolf BA, Paster A, Levy SB

Author affiliation: Almay Advanced Skin Care Institute, Edison, New Jersey 08818, USA.

Publication date & source: 1996.05, Dermatol Surg., 22(5):469-73.

BACKGROUND: Individuals with sensitive skin may not tolerate some products formulated with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) due to unacceptable levels of stinging and irritation. OBJECTIVE: To develop a neutral molecule that is well tolerated by individuals with sensitive skin without stinging or irritation, yet retains the beneficial effects of AHAs. METHODS: A neutral amide derivative, methoxypropylgluconamide (MPG), was invented. Formulations containing MPG (15%) were tested by cummulative irritation, repeat insult patch testing, and lactic acid stinging assay. Bilateral comparison clinical and histological studies of xerosis and photoaging assessments were performed. RESULTS: MPG was nonirritating and nonsensitizing. Clinically significant improvements in xerosis and photoaging including uneven pigmentation were seen. Improvement in the morphology of the stratum corneum epidermis and in the amount of glycosaminoglycans in the epidermis and dermis were seen histologically. CONCLUSIONS: A molecule was invented (MPG) that could be formulated in a neutral vehicle to avoid skin irritation and produced improvements in xerosis and photoaging.

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