Repair of photoaged dermal matrix by topical application of a cosmetic 'antiageing' product.

Author: Watson RE, Long SP, Bowden JJ, Bastrilles JY, Barton SP, Griffiths CE

Author affiliation: Dermatological Sciences Research Group, The University of Manchester, Manchester M13 9PT, UK. rachel.watson@manchester.ac.uk

Publication date & source: 2008.03, Br J Dermatol., 158(3):472-7. Epub 2007 Dec 6.

Publication type: Randomized Controlled Trial

BACKGROUND: Photoaged skin is characterized by coarse and fine wrinkles. The mechanism of wrinkle formation appears to involve changes to components of the dermal extracellular matrix. Topical treatment with all-trans retinoic acid (RA) can repair photoaged dermal matrix; this is regarded as the 'gold standard' against which repair agents are judged. To date, little is known regarding the ability of over-the-counter 'antiageing' products to repair photoaged skin. OBJECTIVES: We used a modified occluded patch test to ascertain whether topical applications of cosmetic 'antiageing' products are able to repair photoaged human skin. METHODS: Commercially available test products [basic moisturizer, 'antiageing' cream containing different active complex levels (6% active: lipopentapeptide, white lupin peptides, antioxidants, retinyl palmitate; 2% active: lipopentapeptide, white lupin peptides, antioxidants)] were applied under occlusion for 12 days prior to biopsy and histological assessment in photoaged volunteers (n=9). RA was used as a positive control. RESULTS: In agreement with previous studies, the patch-test study revealed that RA produced significant fibrillin-1 deposition in the papillary dermis (P<0.01) but had little effect on procollagen I or matrix metalloproteinase-1 expression. The 6% total active complex formulation, however, increased the deposition of fibrillin-1 and procollagen I (P<0.01, P<0.05, respectively). CONCLUSIONS: This study indicates that in an in vivo 12-day patch test an over-the-counter cosmetic product can induce changes in photoaged dermal extracellular matrix, which are indicative of repair.

Indexes of Skin Care Research Abstracts by Subject Category Most Recent

Web SmartSkinCare.com

Home | About Us | Contact Us | Ask a Question | Resources

Copyright © 1999-2009 by Dr. G. Todorov / SmartSkinCare.com
Site Disclaimer | Copyright Certification