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Just as alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids are simple organic acids found in nature or synthesized in the laboratory. They are somewhat different from alpha hydroxy acids in structure and mode of action. Although beta hydroxy acids are now often portrayed as the latest skincare breakthrough, they have been around for quite a while. Salicylic acid, a common beta hydroxy acid, has been used for treating acne for decades. In fact, acne treatment remains the use of choice for beta hydroxy acids. There are no studies showing that beta hydroxy acids are superior or even equal to alpha hydroxy acids for skin exfoliation, reducing fine wrinkles, etc. when used as a part of skin care routine. There is some evidence that as a moderate chemical peel agent (i.e. for relatively strong peels used only occasionally and usually applied by professionals) beta-hydroxy may be a viable alternative to alpha-hydroxy. For acne, however, beta hydroxy acids are clearly superior to alpha hydroxy acids.
For persons without acne, adding beta hydroxy acids to alpha hydroxy acids regimen of daily skin care is a waste of money. For occasional chemical peels, beta-hydroxy may be worth a try, especially if the results with alpha-hydroxy have been unsatisfactory.
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